Guide 02

The best free functional prints to start with

Desk helpers and storage systems that pay off early, in a sensible order.

The quickest way to get value from a printer is to fix something small that annoys you. Functional prints teach more than ornaments, too, because a part that has to fit tells you plainly whether your printer is accurate. Here is the order we would follow. You can find all of these on our functional prints page.

Start with one small job

A cable clip is a nearly perfect first functional print. It uses little filament and finishes quickly, and you find out at once if the fit is right. Print one before you print ten. If it is too tight or too loose, you can adjust the model or try a different design without wasting a whole batch.

A phone stand comes next. It is larger, so it shows you how your printer handles a longer job, and it gives you an object you will see every day. Keep your case on when you test the fit, because cases add more bulk than you might expect.

Move on to a storage system

Single-purpose organizers are fine, but a modular system keeps paying you back. Each new part works with the ones you already have. Two systems come up again and again.

Gridfinity is a grid standard for drawers and desktops. You print a baseplate, then add bins that sit on it and can be moved around. It suits small parts, tools and anything that tends to slide around a drawer. Start with a single baseplate cut to fit one drawer. Do not plan the whole workshop yet, as you will learn what bin sizes you really use only by filling a few.

Multiboard does a similar job for walls. You mount tiles, then attach holders, bins and hooks. It works best when you want tools visible and within reach. The system site explains how the tiles work, and that is worth reading before you print accessories.

Choosing between Gridfinity and Multiboard

Choosing between them is simple. If your clutter lives in drawers, try Gridfinity. If it lives on the bench and you have free wall space, try Multiboard. Plenty of people end up with both.

A few questions make the decision easier:

  • Where is the mess? Solve the location that annoys you most, and leave the rest for later.
  • Do you want to see your tools? A wall keeps them in view. A drawer keeps them out of the dust and out of sight.
  • Can you fix things to the wall? Multiboard needs a surface you are allowed to mount on. Gridfinity only needs a flat bottom.
  • How large is your bed? Both systems can be split into smaller pieces, but check how before you plan a large area.

Measuring a drawer

Empty the drawer before you measure. Take the width and depth at the bottom, because many drawers have rounded corners or sloped sides that make the base smaller than the opening. Measure the usable height too, from the floor of the drawer to the underside of whatever sits above it when the drawer is closed.

The Gridfinity grid is based on 42 mm squares. Divide your width and depth by 42 to see how many units fit, then round down. Whatever is left becomes a gap at the edge. You can leave it, or fill it with a spacer so the baseplate cannot slide. If your drawer is larger than your bed, print several smaller baseplates and let them sit side by side.

Planning a batch

A batch of parts is where small mistakes get expensive, so plan it before you press print.

  1. Print one of each size. Fill it with what it will really hold.
  2. Count what you need. List the parts and add up the filament estimate from your slicer.
  3. Check your spool. Colors can vary between rolls, so finish a set from one roll if the look matters to you.
  4. Print in small groups. A full plate of parts risks all of them if one detaches. Several smaller jobs cost more time and less filament when something fails.

Match material to the job

PLA is the easiest filament and it is fine for most indoor storage. It softens at fairly low temperatures, however, so a PLA part left in a hot car or in direct sun may warp. PETG handles heat better and tends to flex rather than snap, which suits clips and parts that take some stress.

Layer lines are the weak direction of a printed part. When a part will carry a load, orient it so the force does not try to peel the layers apart. Adding a wall or two usually helps more than raising the infill. Hooks and brackets deserve this attention most.

Be realistic about limits as well. Do not rely on a printed part where failure could hurt someone or damage something valuable. A bin of screws is fine. A shelf bracket above your desk needs more thought.

Check before you print many

Before starting a run of parts, print one and test it where it will live. Check the fit, the mounting and the look. If the test part needs a change, make that change now and print one more, as a second test costs far less than a corrected batch. Then check the license on the host page if you plan to share or sell your prints, since “free to download” does not always mean free to use commercially.